Where do People Ski?
“You may have the Universe if I can have Italy” – Guiseppe Verdi, Italian Composer
Okay, so Guiseppe never wrote operas about reasons to ski in Italy and he may have been a little biased, being Italian himself. But the man had passion in his homeland, and you can’t doubt his words.
While military, economic and political might measures global influence, it is the entertainment, fashion, food and people that measures the strength of a culture, and more energetically impacts the wider world. Italy has more World Heritage Sites than any other country, and debatably the best cusine in the world.
These advantages are just confined to the cities – the magic continues into the mountains.
In Europe, the four countries that dominate skier’s choice are France, Austria, Switzerland and Italy. Many make for the Tarentaise valley in France off which many of the big French ski resorts like Courcheval and Les Arcs perch, others head for the Apres in St Anton and Mayrhofen in Austria, and some go for the refinement – and expense – of Switzerland.
Away from the “Big 4”, party-makers and penny-pinchers now head for the delights of Bulgaria and Andorra, while those less fussed about the slopes but more fussed about the huskies and the sunsets, head for the Arctic circle, mainly Finland.
Then there are the heavy spenders, flying across the globe to hit the magnificence of Canada, or checking into the US Resorts or Japan.
All of which leaves Italy nicely in the middle. These are the reasons you should hit the slopes here. Just do me a favour. Let’s keep it our little secret.
The Scenery
Looking out over the Dolomites from the top of Alpe Lusia Ski Area
Italy is stunning. In the same way that you look across Venice, you look across the Italian mountains. France and Austria just don’t seem to compare. Yeah, I’ve been to Mayrhofen – it’s pretty. St Anton, less so. France is nice. But Italy looks like it was sculpted inside a snowglobe.
Head for the Dolomites and you’ll have 12 valleys and 1200km of jagged mountains to feast your eyes on. Up in the Tre Cime, the 3 peaks, there’s old fashion postcard perfect mountains. Taking up the Sellaronda circuit and seeing the Sella Massif from the top of the Marmolada Glacier is a site.
Further afield, you can ogle at Mont Blanc from Courmayeur or La Thuile in the Aosta valley, or head up to Cervinia to see the Matterhorn in all its rugged glory.
The Quiet
Looking out over the Alpe di Siusi Valley above Ortisei, with not a skier in sight
Of course, with all this beauty, you’d think there be tons of people here. Right?
Surprisingly, many places in Italy are quiet. I’ve seen Italy, over the past six years, growing in popularity. But it’s still not a “go-to” destination like France and Austria.
As Germans, Austrians, Russians, Italians, Scandis and British have flocked to the Dolomites, the area has become popular and rich. Yet, even at peak time round the SellaRonda – one of the most famous ski circuits in the World – there are fewer people than in Morzine.
Elsewhere, whereas towns like Courmayeur across the border from Chamonix are better known, up the road 10 kilometres away in La Thuile, there’s a pinch of locals and visitors. Again, in Gressoney and Champoluc, at night they feel like ghost towns.
All of which makes the skiing more fantastic, more otherworldly….. more peaceful.
The Price
The beer cost €5. The snacks.... free. Typical in Italy is Apperitif hours from 4pm to 6pm where snacks are served free of charge with drinks
Skiing in Italy isn’t ludicrously cheap, and as time goes on, one thing is certain – prices will go up. But, it’s still good value.
The universal yardstick of value, as any good alcoholic will tell you, is the price of a pint of beer.
Head to Courchevel and a pint on the mountain can cost you up to €15, depending on where you go. In Chamonix, it’s €10. In fact, if you want to re-mortgage your house, France is a safe bet. Switzerland too, is expensive. Plus, you’ll be messing around with Swiss Francs and Euros till the literal Swiss cows come home – and that’s not till May each year when the farmers release them back into the hills.
In Italy, it’s €6. On the mountain. Sometime’s it’s €5. I once saw €7 and never drank there again.
In Cervinia, many friends would ski to Zermatt in the morning but then come back to Italy for lunch. Why? Because they’d pay €15 for lunch and a beer, not €40. And the food is better (see another reason to ski in Italy below). Same with La Thuile in Italy, and La Rosiere in France. And between Claviere in Italy, and Montgenevre – again in France.
I’ve been out for four course meals in the evening, with bottles of red wine, and eaten like royalty. Then when we’ve split the bill, it’s come to €40 each.
Que Sera, sera (What Will Be, Will Be)
Stopping for a drink at the bar of Ristorante Daniel, in the Seceda Area of the Dolomites
When Doris Day belted out “Que Sera, Sera” in Alfred Hitchcock’s 1950s film The Man Who Knew Too Much, I’m almost, definitely, undeniably sure she was talking about skiing in Italy.
There’s a certain laid back attitude that comes with skiing here. It’s cultivated by the Italians and, for the main, not ruined by the English. Phew. In France, they are bombing down the slope. In Austria, there are on a mission to ski 100 kilometre days.
It’s not that we don’t ever speed down a slope, or hit a massive day. It’s that, for the most part, the joy is in the skiing. Do a few runs, then have an Aperol Spritz. A few more, then it’s time for a late lunch. Some pasta later, and it’s time to do a few of our favourite runs, grab the odd photo of that amazing vista, ski through the trees, and head home.
There’s no mission. There’s a freshness that every day could turn out differently to what you expected. But then again, there’s no expectations and no plans. Just you and the mountain, and whatever will be, will be.
The Food and Drink
Known as a Tagliere or an Affitato Misto - a cold cut plate of ham and cheese. The Gherkin and horse radish is a more Austrian twist on the dish.
Everytime I go to Italy I have a mental list of all the things I want to tick off the list again – Espresso, thick Italian Hot Chocolate, Aperol Sritz, Hugo Spritz, Campari Spritz (live dangerously), Limoncello Spritz, normal Limoncello, but also Limoncello di Crema (because that’s amazing), Negroni, Amaro, Piemonte Red Wine, Radlers (for a little taste of Austria)….
The list goes on, and that’s just the drink.
For starters, Italy has some of the best coffee and the best wine in the world.
Italy also has the best food in Europe. Fin. We can argue about this, and everyone has their different opinions when it comes to their palate. Food can get quite controversial and passionate. Or we can just admit that I’m right, and Italian food has no equal.
Take to the Italian resorts close to France, Switzerland and Austria and you have the best of both world’s. Because, the Italians steal their cuisine; then make it better. Alternatively, you can just ski into France if you’re missing that taste of snails and have it there. Naturally, be prepared to pay for this pleasure – see Price reason above.
Just don’t do it the other way round. I once eat a Tiramisu in La Rosiere, just 3 kilometres over the Italian Border. I’m still regretting it till this day.
The Locals
The Brass band at the Christmas Market in selva di Val Gardena
Italians have a joie de vivre unlike many other countries I’ve seen; which is ironic, as it’s a French phrase.
When you walk into the pub at the end of the day, you will know the barman. And the manager, his family, and all the regulars who come night after night. People talk to you, and you to them.
They’re talking Italian as well, which is a joy to the ear. Unless, of course, you’re in certain vallies of the Dolomites where they will talk to you in German. Or their local dialect, Ladin. I apologise about that; life is not perfect.
Wherever you go, however, you’re bound to get a good welcome. And because the visitors have come for the good skiing, the fine wine and the atmosphere, you’ll get – dare I say it – a better class of skier.
You won’t get Mark and his boys on lads’ holiday, throwing up on the street at 11pm and shouting at the Kebab Owner that he had the audacity to close at 1am in the morning, before they could get their favourite donner. That’s because Mark and the boys are in St Anton. Or maybe Val Thoren. Of course, they won’t be calling it Val Thoren, because they’ll be walking down the street, propped up against each other, yelling “Vee-Tee” in a celebratoty way, for no reason whatsoever.
So save yourself the bother, and come to Italy.
The Variety
Ortisei Christmas Market. Here the architecture is not Italian, but more Austrian, in feel.
Most of the French resorts are within 100 kilometres of each other, as the bird flies. Which is quite outstanding, when you think about how many there are.
Tignes, Val D’Isere, Val Thorens, Les Menuires, Meribel, Courchevel, La Plagne, Les Arcs, La Rosiere, Valmorel, Doucy, Celliers, Sainte-Foy-Tarentaise, Pralognan la Vanoise – they’re all off the Tarrentaise Valley in France. Even the further afield resorts in the Portes Soleil, are not too far away.
Just in North Italy alone, there’s 600 odd kilometres between some of the furthest resorts. Not to mention, additionally, that’s there’s ski resorts further down the country within a few hours of Rome, too.
Therfore, the variety of scenery, food, architecture and culture is considerable – whilst still being a little Italian at heart. Yet you can go from resorts where the towns look a little more French, and the locals speak French as their second language to resorts where the towns are more Austrian, and the locals speak German (sometimes ahead of Italian).
Everyone can find their favourite resort from what cultural blend most appeals to them, and still have the quiet pistes and the good food.
Or, you could just book to go to France again this year.
Great Artificial Snow Coverage
In Winter 2016 - 2017, the Dolomites had hardly any snow, but that didn't stop 95% of the area being open by New Year.
The final reason to ski in Italy is my back handed reason. Now, let’s get totally honest. No holds barred, dirty and gritty reality.
Italy hasn’t got the best recent history of snowfall. I’m not saying it’s awful; it just hasn’t lived up to its French, Austrian and Swiss brothers at time.
In fact, I remember the Winter that Sauze D’oulx and Sestriere had 1 run open at the start of the season – between them! Montgenevre, across the border in France, was the closest place where you could ski on something white.
Similarly in January 2018 when most of Austria was getting flooded with too much snow, Italy had a small flurry. In Mayrhofen, they were literally screaming for the snow to stop. In Cortina, 60 kilometres South, they were screaming for the snow – some snow, any snow – to come.
But, this challenge comes with a solution.
Because Italy knows it might not have much snow each season, it has adapted to this. Which means that Italy has some of the best artificial snow making facilities in Europe. In fact, the Dolomites has 326 snow cats, 4700 snow cannons and 97% snow making abilities. At the start of a dry season, they can have almost all of their pistes open. And they don’t need natural snow for that to happen.
I will go as far to say, that in my experience of skiing 30 odd resorts, I have never seen such good snow making and pisting as I have seen in the Dolomites.
Elsewhere in Italy, even with their more laid back approach, they do a great job with barely anything. The one place I feel is lacking is the Milky Way – notably the resorts of Sauze and Sestriere mentioned above.
Still Not Convinced....?!
So, what are you waiting for?
8 Genuine reasons to book that next ski holiday to Italy.
I hope to see you there, on the slopes. If I do, I hope you find the joy of skiing in Italy. If you don’t, I’ve won either way; I keep my peace, and delight in knowing you’ll be fighting for space elsewhere.
Further Resources
Click on each tab below for resources to plan your trip
To book your first ski holiday, have a look at the following operators:-
- Crystal Ski Holidays
- Inghams
- Mark Warner
- Ski Total
- Club Med
- Topflight (for Irish customers)
- Igluski
Check out my other Ski related posts here:-